Miles Today - 17.6
The Smokies require a permit to travel through. It can be purchased and printed online, or in person at Gatlinburg of Fontana Dam. Or, I thought, the Fontana Dam visitor center on the trail right before the park.
Spoiler alert: this last thing is not true.
Today was beautiful, like the one before. I woke to find my ears were lightly sunburned. Hum. Today I would enter the Smokies, passing by Fontana Dam. I had debated popping into town for a quick hot meal, but my guidebook said the Visitor Center sold snacks, so I figured I'd just get some candy there as an afternoon treat.
Spoiler alert: this would also not work out as planned.
My knee was still twinging, but only on the downhill, so luckily it was 7 miles of downhill to reach the Fontana Hilton shelter on the trail (a shelter with running water and a bathroom! I wish so much I had stayed there!). I made it down alright and guzzled a Mr. Pib from a vending machine, watching Squirrel and another hiker (a physical therapist) get on the shuttle to Fontana. The AT merged briefly onto a road and I arrived at the Visitor Center a few miles later.
I saw Refugee and...damn, I've forgotten her name. Which is bad, because she's one of the few hikers I've seen more than once. Anyways, I cheerfully asked if the store was open. They looked up glumly and shook their heads.
"But we can still get permits here, right?" They shared a look.
"You didn't see?"
"See what?" My panic was rising.
Apparently on a bulletin board there had been a sign announcing the lack of permits sold at the center. Oh no. I'd lose a whole day if I had to go into town. I hesitantly walked into the center, a vague idea forming. "Could I borrow your phone?" I asked of the elderly pair behind the counter.
They allowed it, and soon I was talking to the permit people on the phone. After describing my situation, they let me buy a permit on the phone, and then simply write down the confirmation number. Phew.
As I circled around back to fill my water, I saw two ladies struggling with bringing boxes into the general store. I loped over to help, and they were so grateful they offered me a free candy bar and let me buy some snacks, despite the fact that they were closed. Score!
As I retreated to the dam (which is the bridge into the Smokies) I ran into Rose. Oh shoot! She also didn't have her permit. I explained how she could get one, and then, snacking on Moon Pies, entered the park.
The ascent was rough, mostly due to the heat. The Smokies seemed more alive than the rest of the trail, with more leaves, grass, and in some parts breathtaking expanded of flowers. I arrived at the shelter around 5, and snuggled into a corner spot in the rafters. Perfect.
Over dinner I listened to an ex-nuclear sub technician tell stories to a pair of Special Forces inclined fellows. When Rose arrived we talked through plans. She was meeting her boyfriend on Friday in Hot Springs, meaning she would have to slow down or she would arrive too early. I wanted to avoid the weekend crowds in the Smokies, so we decided to take a zero on Sunday in Gatlinburg.
The Smokies are nice, and now that I have the elevation it looks like easy ridge walking to the city. Should be a nice few days.
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