Day 17 - Tornados, Rain, and Bears! Oh My!

Miles Today - 18.7
Location - Davenport Gap Shelter
Date - April 29th

Alright, to be fair the tornado and the rain wasn't that bad. Overnight they howled and lightning crashed close to the shelter, but as day broke much of it had calmed. The wind still roared, occasionally uprooting a tree, but yet again the weather denied the forecast.

The rain slowed to a drizzle when I reached the first shelter, stopping in for brunch. By noon the sun was shining again, and as I descended most of the way out of the park it grew quite warm. I had rushed through the miles today, and arrived at the shelter around 2. Rose had beaten me there, and we lounged around, chatting with hikers who passed on their way to the hostel 3 miles down the trail.

As night drew nearer a decent crowd had gathered, and we sat outside cooking. That was when we saw the first bear. It was down the slope from us, and quickly took flight up and away on the trail when we took notice.

The second bear was much less worried by us. It stalked up the hill, watched by its cubs, and meandered around our shelter for over an hour. The chain link fence we had mocked before, caging in the shelter, felt much more comforting now. It ripped into another hiker's tarp and tent, hung out to dry, before we could rescue it. We eventually locked up and retired to our bags, amazed by its nonchalant attitude towards us. But hey, at least I got to see a bear before I left the Smokies.

Day 16 - Surprise! It Doesn't Suck!

Miles Today - 15.6
Location - Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
Date - April 28th

It was a quiet morning at the Grand Prix. As I shuffled around, making tea and eating Pop Tarts, I exchanged tired nods with the bleary eyed inhabitants of room 36, who had most likely partied too hard last night to catch their shuttle.

Grabbing some candy from the general store, I munched on peach rings and Dr. Pepper gum in the back of the van. We didn't get started until 11, all of us nervously eying the sky. A tornado had killed 18 people south of us, and it was on its way north. The forecast was rain today, storm tomorrow, and rain some more after that.

But then, by some stroke of luck, the weather held. The sun shone down through puffy clouds as I created ridge after ridge. I knocked off 16 miles today in just over 6 hours, including time for admiring views and eating lunch. It felt great. And oh man, the views were the best they've ever been. A rock formation called John's Bunion provided a particularly splendid view of the valleys below.

The shelter is as crowded as I've ever seen. About 30 of us are inside, hiding from the coming storm. I arrived too late for a real spot, so along with Rose I'm sleeping bagged out on the dirt. But there's a roof over my head and a tarp behind me to keep out the rain, so I have few complaints.

Day 13 - Make Up Your Mind!

Miles Today - 17.5

I awoke to birds chirping in the morning sun. Ah. A moment later more rain than I've ever seen fell from the sky and all hell broke loose.

It was that kind of day. The weather alternated several times between gorgeous and torrential rain. I got soaked to the bone and then completely dried three times over.

My appetite has been growing by leaps and bounds. While I left the NOC thinking I had too much food, I now wish I had taken more. Luckily I ran into Refugee's partner (whose name I should really figure out. Also Refugee has left the trail for a week or two), and she told me her parents are doing trail magic on Clingam's Dome tomorrow. Hot dogs and hamburgers. Perfect. I scarfed down the remainder of my snacks.

The shelter was full of people doing minimal millage to hide from the rain, so I set up the hammock nearby. It's supposed to be nice tonight and tomorrow though. Rose went on another 1.7 miles, so I'll wake up early as always and try to catch up in the morning. I'll hit the Dome and wait for that cookout, and then will head into Gatlinburg for some serious relaxation.

Day 12 - In a (Fontana) Jam

Miles Today - 17.6

The Smokies require a permit to travel through. It can be purchased and printed online, or in person at Gatlinburg of Fontana Dam. Or, I thought, the Fontana Dam visitor center on the trail right before the park.

Spoiler alert: this last thing is not true.

Today was beautiful, like the one before. I woke to find my ears were lightly sunburned. Hum. Today I would enter the Smokies, passing by Fontana Dam. I had debated popping into town for a quick hot meal, but my guidebook said the Visitor Center sold snacks, so I figured I'd just get some candy there as an afternoon treat.

Spoiler alert: this would also not work out as planned.

My knee was still twinging, but only on the downhill, so luckily it was 7 miles of downhill to reach the Fontana Hilton shelter on the trail (a shelter with running water and a bathroom! I wish so much I had stayed there!). I made it down alright and guzzled a Mr. Pib from a vending machine, watching Squirrel and another hiker (a physical therapist) get on the shuttle to Fontana. The AT merged briefly onto a road and I arrived at the Visitor Center a few miles later.

I saw Refugee and...damn, I've forgotten her name. Which is bad, because she's one of the few hikers I've seen more than once. Anyways, I cheerfully asked if the store was open. They looked up glumly and shook their heads.

"But we can still get permits here, right?" They shared a look.

"You didn't see?"

"See what?" My panic was rising.

Apparently on a bulletin board there had been a sign announcing the lack of permits sold at the center. Oh no. I'd lose a whole day if I had to go into town. I hesitantly walked into the center, a vague idea forming. "Could I borrow your phone?" I asked of the elderly pair behind the counter.

They allowed it, and soon I was talking to the permit people on the phone. After describing my situation, they let me buy a permit on the phone, and then simply write down the confirmation number. Phew.

As I circled around back to fill my water, I saw two ladies struggling with bringing boxes into the general store. I loped over to help, and they were so grateful they offered me a free candy bar and let me buy some snacks, despite the fact that they were closed. Score!

As I retreated to the dam (which is the bridge into the Smokies) I ran into Rose. Oh shoot! She also didn't have her permit. I explained how she could get one, and then, snacking on Moon Pies, entered the park.

The ascent was rough, mostly due to the heat. The Smokies seemed more alive than the rest of the trail, with more leaves, grass, and in some parts breathtaking expanded of flowers. I arrived at the shelter around 5, and snuggled into a corner spot in the rafters. Perfect.

Over dinner I listened to an ex-nuclear sub technician tell stories to a pair of Special Forces inclined fellows. When Rose arrived we talked through plans. She was meeting her boyfriend on Friday in Hot Springs, meaning she would have to slow down or she would arrive too early. I wanted to avoid the weekend crowds in the Smokies, so we decided to take a zero on Sunday in Gatlinburg.

The Smokies are nice, and now that I have the elevation it looks like easy ridge walking to the city. Should be a nice few days.