Day 31 - Storm Front

Miles Today - 22.7
Location - Vandeventer Shelter
Date - May 13

This was gonna be a long day, but a flat one. Perfect for cruisin' along. I popped out early, scarfing down a few Pop Tarts and pounding out some fast miles.

I took a quick break for brunch at a shelter, and met the Professor, an older section hiker who was almost done with the trail, just here to Damascus and then the Hundred Mile Wilderness.

Coming out of the shelter I met a handful of people slackpacking south. They told me of a huge trail magic party at the next gap. Oh. Oh yes. I jogged the next mile.

I arrived at the gap to find a trailer with a scruffy looking guy setting up a grill. I waved hello. He said something disparaging about Obama. This...did not seem like a party. I hung around, made some small talk, and he made no indication of sharing. Alllriiight? A little disappointed, I left.

I hiked for a few minutes through some grassy fields. Dejectedly, I crested a hill, and found a huge tent city sprawling out before me. Aha! The party! Set up by a group called Riff Raff, they were a rolling campsite towards Trail Days. I settled in to a lawn chair and had some cool drinks and donuts, while everyone tried to convince me to stay. Rose came and went, and I eventually managed to haul myself away.

Rejuvenated by the magic I cruised along. I stopped for a rest at a cosy shelter. Then onwards and upwards! A few miles down the trail I felt a drop of rain. Huh? The sky to my left, right, and ahead was blue. Straight above was grey. Uh oh. I bent down to secure my pack cover, and the rain picked up. Err. I pulled out the poncho, and it opened up. Thunder roared, and my exposed skin and clothing was instantly soaked. I pushed on, waterproof boots soaked, through a river of mud. Then the hail started, so hard and fast that I had to draw my arms into my poncho. And I could still see blue sky all around me. What was happening!?

It finally cleared, and I took a few minutes to wring out my socks. Jeeze. That was absurd. I headed on. An hour later, I happened to turn around and was greeted by the sight of another storm cloud.

Urp. I picked up the pace. Ahead of me I could see the ridge curving. If I made it there in time I might dodge it.

I did not. This time I took the hail/thunderstorm more in stride, belting out Thunderstruck at the top of my lungs (of course doing some sweet vocal guitar solos). As it began to die down I found a small shelter by the trail. I squeezed in to find a pair of hikers and a dog. Apparently this was an old, no longer maintained shelter. But the next one, my destination, was but 1.4 away! Back to cruisin'!

I literally ran. The rain died down, and then started up again as I skidded into the shelter! Score! My happiness died away as I opened my pack. I dampness had infused everything. I stripped down to my dryish pair of underwear and went to get water when the rain briefly broke. Down a muddy hill. A quarter mile. Screw you too Tennessee shelters.

I cooked dinner late, curled up in my bag, and then promptly crashed to the sound of another hailstorm smashing into the tin roof. What a day. The weather here makes just no sense.

Day 30 - Lakeside Lounging

Miles Today - 17.6 (more like 18.6 grumble grumble)
Location - Kincora Hostel
Date - May 12

Morning at Kincora was amazing. Jack, Bear, and Viking cooked up a breakfast of pancakes, tater tots, and breakfast burritos. A perfect start to the day. I bid everyone goodbye, and headed out.

The trail meandered around Laurel Falls, going through some beautifully large rock formations. It was...well, rocky, but a gorgeous place to trek through. Right after I headed up Pond Flats, a decently sized standalone mountain. The ascent went by quickly, and the views at the top were obscured by a corpse of trees. Disappointing.

At the bottom of the mountain a beautiful, extensive lake spread out. I plopped down at the beach and snacked aggressively. After about a half hour I pulled myself away.

The trail circled around the lake, which stretched off in all sorts of directions. I was totally drained of energy. And it was hot. I felt like all sorts of blah, trudging heavily up the trail.

I finally flopped into the shelter, totally beat. Where's the water? I asked. Back down the trail and down a huge hill. Mile round trip. Huzzzzah.

On the way down I met Poncho, an actor from New York, and Rose. Back at the shelter we cooked up dinner and chatted, before Poncho headed on further down the trail to camp. After that, I settled into my bag and finished my book as the sun set.

Day 29 - Baby Head Outbreak

Miles Today - 15.6
Location - Kincora Hostel
Date - May 11

I feel that I've reached an odd point in my life where 7am is considered "late." But still, 5:30 is too early to get up if you're on the third floor and make a lot if noise whilst getting your gear together. Good morning.

The hike today was short and over mostly flattish terrain. Which is to say up then down then up then down then up...you get the idea. So very quick going, but absolutely no views. I stopped for a quick brunch and cruised along under fluffy clouds and a blue sky to arrive at the hostel around 1.

Kincora is beautiful, an old wooden building covered in vines. An orange tabby greeted me at the drive and after making sure I was following and petting him intermittently, prowled his way to the porch. Cats at the hostel? Bonus points.

The place is run by an old fellow named Bob Peoples, also from Boston. Also there was a couple from Maine who cooked us a huge spaghetti dinner followed by ice cream and strawberry shortcake. Baltimore Jack, a trail legend for...some reason? He's...done it a bunch? I dunno. He's here, and a nice guy.

After dinner Bob gave some of us a ride to the local Food City to resupply. Ten of us crammed into the back of his truck. It was...not the most comfortable. On the way back it was worse, as we all had our groceries with us. Trail Lobster complained that he felt like a baby: too sore to support his limbs. I nodded, putting on my best steely look. "Noravirus, that's nothing. It's that Baby Head Syndrome you have to watch out for." Lobster flopped his head appreciably.

The bubble we've entered turned out to be the Lost Boys, about 10 guys and gals I'd been hearing about for some time now. They made a handful of challenges for hikers to complete, ranging from the Southern Belle (hike and hitch into town in a dress below the Mason Dixon Line, dudes only) to the Dobler Effect (hike a boom box to the top of a mountain and blast some tunes). I hung out with some of them, eating War Heads on the porch, as it grew dark.

Kincora Hostel, A+.

Day 28 - Bouncin' Bubbles

Miles Today - 18
Location - Mountaineer Falls Shelter
Date - May 10

The barn was a mine field if sleeping bodies in the morning. Apparently some people disagree with my definition of sleeping in being till 7.

In the morning I traipsed my way across a beautiful grassy ridge. Dark clouds gathered overhead, lending a feeling to the atmosphere akin to being unable to melee a Legion beast: foreboding (like, two people laughed at that obscure joke). Then again, I couldn't remember the last time the clouds had actually gone through with the threat.

A bit after reentering the forest the trees opened up on the right, giving me a nice view as I officially left North Carolina and entered Tennessee. It was comforting to know for sure where I was, and leave straddling the border behind.

I eventually spilled out onto a road, a small white church on the right. A tap was on the side, and hikers could fill up there. The moment I finished filling my bottles the skies opened up with a rending crack of thunder. I scurried under the back porch, and wearily put on my rain gear. The thunder continued, right over my head.

By the time my poncho was on, it had died down a little. I rejoined the trail and cruised for the last 5 miles. I arrived first of the day to the shelter, the rain having stopped some time ago.

Rose and I seem to have stumbled upon a large bubble where everyone knows everyone but us. Jay Weezie and crew had pushed on, and as darkness is falling we keep hearing people scream things like "ladies and gentlemen, the apocalypse has arrived!" Followed by a chorus of cheers.

Everyone seems to be angling to go to the Kincora hostel tomorrow. If today means anything though, I should be able to get there before anyone and snag some spots. The sky keeps threatening rain, but I'm beginning to believe I've been blessed with absurdly good weather luck, for whatever reason, so I'm not too worried. Onwards and upwards!

Day 27 - #barnparty2014

Miles Today - 17.2
Location - Overmountain Shelter
Date - May 9

To be a little more fair to the Greasy Creek owner, she was feeling sick and rather stressed. Which in turn made all of us rather stressed. And I did get to eat a pound of burger and a pint of ice cream (Scotchy Scotch Scotch), so, eh.

I made a decently early start, loitering around for some coffee and getting hiking by 8:45. The morning was busy, with some pretty big crowds of hikers, all headed to Overmountain Shelter. Rose posited later that we'd caught up to a big bubble, which makes sense. Lots of new faces.

Roan mountain dominated the morning hike. It was surprisingly easy. At the peak was the sight of an old hotel, the only thing left being a chimney. It straddled the state line in a time where alcohol was legal in one and not in the other. Apparently the sheriff stalked the ballroom and ticketed anyone who stepped across the line with a drink in their hands.

I stopped for lunch at the Roan Mountain Shelter, the highest shelter on the AT. It was cute, with four walls, a door, and a separate attic area. Tempting to stay, but I pushed on.

Down the mountain the trail spilled out onto some balds. That's my favorite kind of hiking, with the trail clearly visible ahead, grass all around, and the wind whipping at me. Dark clouds had loomed ahead all day, and they finally began to spit rain down as I went back under the treeline.

The rain cleared by the time I reached Overmountain. It's an old barn that's been converted into a shelter, and it's huge. It's also packed. I ended up in a corner of the rafters with Rose and the crew from the hostel: Jay Weezy, Banjo, Bill and Dancer.

Banjo and I both yogied some fuel from a hiker box a few days back, and it seems to be some kind of rocket fuel. My stove threw fire all over, prompting Dancer to slide some water over to me. Just in case.

New AT goal: catch up to that guy and make him cook with his own fuel.

Day 32 - Drive Through Damascus

Miles Today - 19.6
Location - Saunders Shelter
Date - May 14

Towns are the best motivation. I somehow managed to wake up, pack out, and hike 10 miles in 3 and a half hours. I also crossed from Tennessee into Virginia, which is noteworthy because Tennessee is too cheap to install privies in shelters. Their inclusion is a marked improvement to the trail experience.

In town I hit the Dollar Store for a quick candy resupply, and got breakfast at the Blue Blaze Cafe with Rose and the Professor. Despite having already eaten breakfast, I attempted the all you can eat pancake challenge. Man were those pancakes large. Plate sized. I ate 7, a solid 12 short of the record. When I roll in for Trail Days I may do it on an empty stomach and try to regain my honor.

I hiked out first, belt buckle loose over my overladen stomach. 7 pancakes larger than my face on top of my normal hiker breakfast (two packs of Pop Tarts and a Cliff Builder bar) was not sitting well. And it had just gotten hot again. I hobbled and wheezed my way up the next 10 miles.

At the shelter I met Leah and Dustin, the cutest couple who were out camping for a week. They had been dating on an off since the 6th grade, and after an evening of lounging around with them have been rated in the top tier of Rose and my shelter companions. Sadly they were going SoBo, and sleep in, so we bid them farewell before going to bed.

I had set up my hammock for the first time in weeks because it was so nice out, and then a single cloud appeared and scared my inside. Good thing too, as the rain began to fall as the sun set. Blergh. Here's to not waking up to a damp, drizzling, cold morning.

Day 26 - Awol, You Cad

Miles Today - 20.7
Location - Greasy Creek Friendly Hostel
Date - May 8

I rose, as always, in the early morning. After getting my bear bag down I quickly packed up, munching on Pop Tarts, and got going. I planned on eating every last remaining food bite before the resupply, which at this point was four power bars, bacon bits, some noodles, and a Snickers.

The morning was low grade, gently sloping up to Unuka Mountain. I soon emerged into a gap where a middle aged gentleman was doing some magic. He was fascinated that a northerner would reach for sweet tea first, and I sat and talked with him for awhile while munching on fruit.

Unuka Mountain was a fairly easy ascent. The peak was covered in dense spruce forest, as was much of the descent. I ran into Persistant and Refugee slack packing south for the day, and then hit the shelter for lunch.

Soon after I came upon another gap with soda for magic. I learned later I left right before they ordered pizza, and trucked through the last few miles.

Greasy Creek was...not as described. Rose and I expected a full resupply, as indicated by Awol's guide (all hail the holy Awol!). Instead we found a small rack of power bars and original flavor oatmeal. Hmm. The owner was an older lady, perpetually flustered by nothing.

The hostel was fairly crowded, and we made a decent resupply of my mail drop, the store down the street, and the extra food Dancer offloaded. Down the street is sorta a misnomer. We were driven a few miles down back country roads in the middle of nowhere to a small convenience store and a grill for dinner. "What do people do around here?" Banjo asked. "Who knows? They all seem to think I'm a prostitute anyways." Her cat, curled up on my lap in the truck, stretched and purred in agreement.

Rose bought a jar of cheese salsa and poured it into a zip lock, as it was the closest thing resembling cheese they sold. That sums up the place.

Day 25 - American Hot, Please

Miles Today - 21.1
Location - Curly Maple Gap Shelter
Date - May 7

Lots of miles today. I was excited. I spent the morning flip flipping between Squirrel and White Rabbit as we passed babbling brooks and...simpering streams? Eh.

The good weather continued to hold. Which was now a problem. Squirrel had described the night before a trip to a Thai restaurant. "It comes spicy, right?" The waitress paused. "Do you want it American spicy, or Thai spicy?" Today was Thai hot. I believe I clearly ordered American hot.

We met Kenny at No Business shelter for lunch. There was noticeably no privy. No business allowed.

The trail to Erwin was mostly downhill, and fairly low grade. But it was hot. Hoooot. Did I mention the heat? Pulling into the outfitters I immediately got a vending machine soda and guzzled it. Then I got another and nursed it. Ice cold drinks, so nice.

While charging my phone and resupplying on snacks for the next day (because I had enough but like to pig out when possible) I had to fight off people trying to convince me to stay in Erwin and swim in the river. Staying strong, I pulled myself away after only a half hour.

There were only 5 miles left, and they were low grade mostly, but it was just so hot. A few times I just had to stop to pull my shirt off and skulk in the shade. When I reached the shelter I flopped and lay in a puddle of sweat for a bit. Aw...

I met CAT, a Taiwanese, Chinese, American whose shelter logs I had been reading for weeks. We were joined later by Atlas, a French Canadian, and Yellow Beard, who had a terrible accident in the wind to earn his trail name. After spending an embarrassing amount of time trying to hang a bear bag (only to have everyone else just hang in the shelter!) Rose and I plotted out the next week.

After a brief incident with a spider who did not want to die encroaching on Rose's bag, I retired to bed. Tomorrow is a 20 with a single real mountain, so it should be mostly cruising. Fingers crossed it cools down a bit though, or I may have to ooze into the hostel.

Day 24 - "These Are My Bug Repellent"

The title should be read while making karate hands .

Miles Today - 18.9
Location - Bald Mountain Shelter
Date - May 6

The good weather holds, though with the good weather comes a not so fine coating of sweat that transforms into a few inches of salt and grime. It's...lovely.

I zipped off in the morning, pushing through to the first shelter before it got too hot. Squirrel and White Rabbit were already there, and gloated that they beat me to it. We ate lunch, and I headed out first.

We had an early afternoon of downhills, and remembering something that Kenny had told me a week or so ago, I decided to try running down. It's an interesting way to move: step, step, swiiing on your poles. Fast, surprisingly gentle on the knees, but mentally draining. Normally you can zone out while walking, but running requires 100% focus.

In the late afternoon I ascended on Big Bald. It was a nice moment, as the peak had been looming in my vision for hours. The view was breathtaking. Moments like that remind me why I hike. The descent was some of the best hiking I'd done so far, through gorgeous grassy fields with the mountains stretching out around me. I felt a pang of sadness as the woods closed back in, but the shelter was soon after.

I chatted with Northern Lights for a bit until the rest of the crew arrived: Rose, Squirrel, White Rabbit, and Kenny. I'd been getting excellent sleep with plenty of room in the past few nights, so I snuggled down happily as the sun set. Big day tomorrow.

Day 23 - Slowpoke De Mayo

Miles Today - 12.7
Location - Flint Mountain Shelter
Date - May 5

Cinco de Mayo! Huzzah? I'll pretend it didn't take me all day to realize. Or that it was relevant.

Today I was moving sluggishly on purpose, as I had only 13ish to do to let Rose catch up. So I woke up nice and late. 7:15. Aw yis. I even ate a Pop Tart sitting down. I was going by 7:45. Much slow. Very lazy. Wow.

The morning was a steep rock scramble, leading to some nice views. Later on I pulled myself up a hill and found myself in a park. A poorly kept, overgrown park. But still. I expected some guys to be tossing a Frisbee around, at 5000 feet.

I turned my phone on to take a picture and discovered I had reception. Sweet! My four bars lasted three minutes into my phone call before deciding not to transmit my voice anymore. I take reception where I can get it though, so no complaints.

First at the shelter, I filtered water and settled in to read. Giggles and the two British gentlemen showed up in the early afternoon. Squirrel and White Rabbit came in for dinner and moved on a few more miles to tent. Rose arrived hot off the heels of a "gnarly" 22 miler. All in all, a day best exemplified by a long yawn.

Day 22 - Overshoot

Miles Today - 19.6
Location - Little Laurel Shelter
Date - May 4

I did not sleep in. I made it to 7 though. I showered, and downed a coffee while packing up. I was only planning on doing 11 today, so loitering was fine. I was out by 8. I'm becoming terrible at being lazy.

The sun was bright. Almost too bright. We're supposed to have a week of wonderful weather. Then again, this is on the heels of a week of supposedly terrible weather that turned out okay, so my personal prediction is stormy. I think my weather karma is due to be balanced out.

I ended up rolling into the shelter at 1. Hurm. Rose was definitely sleeping in, and would end up here. But I would feel silly stopping at 1. I had a quick lunch and headed out. Next shelter, 9ish away!

It got hotter, and I grew a little sluggish. I pushed by the temptations of a hostel with a cafe and a little convenience store. I had too much food as is. I hit the shelter at 5, tired but feeling good about almost pulling a 20.

I had left notes to Rose at both shelters, and tomorrow plan to do just 12 and a bit to let her catch up. I'm gonna try my best to sleep in and make some hot breakfast. My expectations are low.

Day 19 - Mist Walk

Miles Today - 14.8
Location - Deer Park Mountain Shelter
Date - May 1

The storm finally caught up to us, loud pelts of rain on the tin roof stirring me awake. I was also roused by a night hiker who meandered through, looking for a spot in the full shelter. I watched him by his red light, a little leery as I had just heard about a SoBo hiker who steals food at night, before quickly falling into a tired sleep again.

My food was there in the morning. A heavy mist covered everything, limiting visibility to only about 15 feet. I became briefly lost, but only wasted about 10 minutes on a side trail before arriving back on track. I ate brunch at a mist shrouded shelter, and pushed on.

Going into Hot Springs today would be easy. But Rose is spending Friday and Saturday there to meet her boyfriend, and I'd like to be at most a day ahead of her. Another zero on Saturday does sound nice though. But then I certainly don't want to waste money on a motel tonight. So I ended taking a short day, and rolled into the shelter at 1:00, as the mist began to give away to a bright sun.

Yeesh. That's early. Much of the crew from last night showed up in time, and we chatted about our Hot Springs plans while gorging on our extra food supplies. As the afternoon grew later we decided it was quiet time, and retreated to bags/tents for a few hours. A lot of people like to tent out on nice days like this, but I prefer a shelter to keep my mornings short and sweet. There's a diner in Hot Springs that I want to be at as early as possible.

Day 18 - Perfect Timing

Miles Today - 18.7
Location - Roaring Fork Shelter
Date - April 30th

They said it was going to storm last night into today. After the last 3 days of weather and forecasts, I am now convinced the weathermen/women are on vacation and are randomly phoning in their predictions.

To be fair, it sure as hell looked like it would rain today. Dark clouds rolled overhead as I made my way down early to Standing Bear Farm. I briefly got lost when the trail joined the highway, but was pointed in the right direction by a nice couple in an RV.

The farm/hostel was quaint, the kind that made want to spend the rest of the day there. It was still packed with hikers, but I managed to slip in, grab some breakfast, and slip out without wasting much time. The wind picked up as I hit the first bald of the day, where an air control tower lay.

After a meandering afternoon I arrived at Max Patch. It was a beautiful bald, rolling hills of grass descending into idyllic farmland that made me want to fly to England and walk the countryside. I had blue sky above, but the dark clouds hovered menacingly all around me.

I quickly descended to the shelter, doing today's miles by 4. Not bad. There's a good crowd, though the shelter log is full and none of us could write anything. It drizzled as I set up my bag and snacked, but the rain stopped the moment I left to filter water. When I returned the fog descended and the rain began again. I seem to have perfected the ability to avoid the bad weather. Not bad.

Day 17 - Tornados, Rain, and Bears! Oh My!

Miles Today - 18.7
Location - Davenport Gap Shelter
Date - April 29th

Alright, to be fair the tornado and the rain wasn't that bad. Overnight they howled and lightning crashed close to the shelter, but as day broke much of it had calmed. The wind still roared, occasionally uprooting a tree, but yet again the weather denied the forecast.

The rain slowed to a drizzle when I reached the first shelter, stopping in for brunch. By noon the sun was shining again, and as I descended most of the way out of the park it grew quite warm. I had rushed through the miles today, and arrived at the shelter around 2. Rose had beaten me there, and we lounged around, chatting with hikers who passed on their way to the hostel 3 miles down the trail.

As night drew nearer a decent crowd had gathered, and we sat outside cooking. That was when we saw the first bear. It was down the slope from us, and quickly took flight up and away on the trail when we took notice.

The second bear was much less worried by us. It stalked up the hill, watched by its cubs, and meandered around our shelter for over an hour. The chain link fence we had mocked before, caging in the shelter, felt much more comforting now. It ripped into another hiker's tarp and tent, hung out to dry, before we could rescue it. We eventually locked up and retired to our bags, amazed by its nonchalant attitude towards us. But hey, at least I got to see a bear before I left the Smokies.

Day 15 - Reflection

Miles Today - 0

I stayed in Gatlinburg all day, doing chores, eating food, and lounging around the motel with the other hikers.

Today I just wanted to briefly write about where I am mentally with this trip. I set out intent to reach Maine before the term began, but I've begun to rethink the objective. For one, I no longer feel much of a desire to complete the trail. For another, while the pace I set would be doable, it wouldn't be much fun to rush rush rush my way to the north.

So I've decided to walk till I feel like stopping. Hiking has always been about accomplishment for me, and having my only goal be Maine makes it harder to feel good about each day. So I'm setting smaller goals. Next stop is Hot Springs, and I'll plan from there. This is all to say that I may be out here for another week, another month, or maybe the whole summer after all. We'll see.

So far though, I've been having a hell of a good time on the trail. If you ever are having doubts about the goodness of people, take a walk on the AT. The kindness shown by people on and off the trail is staggering. The strong sense of community among long distance hikers is evident each day on the trail, each night at a shelter, and in towns when two of you pass, poles click clacking on the cement.

It's a wonderful place, and I'm having a wonderful time. How much longer I'll be out here is something I still have to figure out, but I'll continue living it up until then. Cheers.

Day 16 - Surprise! It Doesn't Suck!

Miles Today - 15.6
Location - Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
Date - April 28th

It was a quiet morning at the Grand Prix. As I shuffled around, making tea and eating Pop Tarts, I exchanged tired nods with the bleary eyed inhabitants of room 36, who had most likely partied too hard last night to catch their shuttle.

Grabbing some candy from the general store, I munched on peach rings and Dr. Pepper gum in the back of the van. We didn't get started until 11, all of us nervously eying the sky. A tornado had killed 18 people south of us, and it was on its way north. The forecast was rain today, storm tomorrow, and rain some more after that.

But then, by some stroke of luck, the weather held. The sun shone down through puffy clouds as I created ridge after ridge. I knocked off 16 miles today in just over 6 hours, including time for admiring views and eating lunch. It felt great. And oh man, the views were the best they've ever been. A rock formation called John's Bunion provided a particularly splendid view of the valleys below.

The shelter is as crowded as I've ever seen. About 30 of us are inside, hiding from the coming storm. I arrived too late for a real spot, so along with Rose I'm sleeping bagged out on the dirt. But there's a roof over my head and a tarp behind me to keep out the rain, so I have few complaints.

Day 14 - Perfection

Miles Today - 12.5

Yesterday was terrible, no denying it. At every turn something seemed to go wrong. Today was perfect. I guess the trail balances itself out, sometimes in extreme ways.

I woke early and broke camp as the light trickled onto the ridge. Persistence sauntered over to me as I was getting out my remaining food (a Snickers and a Cliff bar) and said "205." I nodded, a little grimly. That was 4 miles past Clingam's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I'd have to make my food last.

They lasted an hour. It was chilly, but bright and warming quickly. The ground was slick with mud and puddles from the day before. I quickly pulled into the next shelter, and debated poking around to see if Rose was still there, but judging from the snores coming from within I'd be disturbing a lot of people if I did.

The trek to the Dome felt fast and easy. The weather had reached a perfectly warm point, and the trail felt greener than ever before. I ascended the curving observation tower to be immediately swarmed with what seemed like hundreds of purple shirted middle schoolers, who made taking clear pictures mostly impossible. I descended, doing my best not to bowl over any children who were below my sight line.

"Is there an elevator to that tower?" One of them panted, coming up the road. I giggled.

The path down from the Dome was buzzing with life. Not just was it a solid green tunnel, but it was infested with flies, hovering in swarms over the fetid puddles. Just as I started getting hungry, an older couple passed by. They offered me two apples, and I thought I was about to faint from sheer gratitude. All smiles, we both went our ways.

A mile later I came out to a green field lying below a parking lot. As I came around the bend I saw Persistence's tent drying on the grass. 205. Yes.

I spent a little under an hour there, waiting for Rose. They had a grill going, and bags of chips, cookies, candy, and soda. I kept being encouraged to eat and ended up pitting down 2 burgers, 2 dogs, and more of the others than I could count. It was heaven.

A man in a day pack, named Godspeed, came through, and offered the assembled masses of hikers a shuttle into town from Newfound Gap. Even better! Rose and I picked up and did the fastest 1.7 miles I think I've ever hiked.

At the gap (which hold the North Carolina Tennessee state line, though we've been straddling it for days) Godspeed and his wife, Mountain Momma, had desserts, sodas, and sandwiches for us. They told us about how Godspeed and his son had started a thru hike, only to be stopped when Godspeed caught a bad virus. He told his son to go on without him, but when he hiked the 5 miles to the nearest road his son was there waiting for him. "We started, together, we'll finish together." When they got home they discovered his son, trail name Aslan, had a brain tumor. The doctors said it was inoperable, and gave him only a few months.

Aslan went in for surgery to drill a hole in his skull, to let the brain fluid have a place to drain. His family gathered to pray for mercy, knowing that a brain tumor was a hard way to go. The surgeon went to the waiting room to discuss the procedure with Mountain Momma, and as she was leaving, Momma asked her name so that they could pray for her specifically. The surgeon smiled. "Mercy."

Aslan made a full recovery against the odds, and he and Godspeed finished their hike, together.

Godspeed also warned us that Gatlinburg was like Vegas, only without the gambling. He warned us that he gave out his number so that we could update them on our trip, not to call to ask for bail. I couldn't tell if he was joking.

Gatlinburg is certainly an experience. It's a long strip packed with over the top amusements and restaurants. The streets are packed, with people and cars swarming from attraction to attraction. It's beautiful. It's terrifying. It's a tourist wonderland.

Rose and I are booked at the Grand Prix Motel at the edge of town. We went to a local brewery for dinner, eating with Half Moon, a free lance writer on his third thru hike we had met the day before. I stuffed myself silly while Rose worked hard to convince him to hike the Pacific Crest Trail next.

Beat, I retired to our room and crashed hard. Tomorrow is for shopping, as I need food, and especially some sandals, to wear around camp. There's also a BBQ joint down the street with a highly recommended breakfast buffet. Gatlinburg is certainly crazy, but I look forward to the day off.