Day 15 - Reflection

Miles Today - 0

I stayed in Gatlinburg all day, doing chores, eating food, and lounging around the motel with the other hikers.

Today I just wanted to briefly write about where I am mentally with this trip. I set out intent to reach Maine before the term began, but I've begun to rethink the objective. For one, I no longer feel much of a desire to complete the trail. For another, while the pace I set would be doable, it wouldn't be much fun to rush rush rush my way to the north.

So I've decided to walk till I feel like stopping. Hiking has always been about accomplishment for me, and having my only goal be Maine makes it harder to feel good about each day. So I'm setting smaller goals. Next stop is Hot Springs, and I'll plan from there. This is all to say that I may be out here for another week, another month, or maybe the whole summer after all. We'll see.

So far though, I've been having a hell of a good time on the trail. If you ever are having doubts about the goodness of people, take a walk on the AT. The kindness shown by people on and off the trail is staggering. The strong sense of community among long distance hikers is evident each day on the trail, each night at a shelter, and in towns when two of you pass, poles click clacking on the cement.

It's a wonderful place, and I'm having a wonderful time. How much longer I'll be out here is something I still have to figure out, but I'll continue living it up until then. Cheers.

Day 16 - Surprise! It Doesn't Suck!

Miles Today - 15.6
Location - Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
Date - April 28th

It was a quiet morning at the Grand Prix. As I shuffled around, making tea and eating Pop Tarts, I exchanged tired nods with the bleary eyed inhabitants of room 36, who had most likely partied too hard last night to catch their shuttle.

Grabbing some candy from the general store, I munched on peach rings and Dr. Pepper gum in the back of the van. We didn't get started until 11, all of us nervously eying the sky. A tornado had killed 18 people south of us, and it was on its way north. The forecast was rain today, storm tomorrow, and rain some more after that.

But then, by some stroke of luck, the weather held. The sun shone down through puffy clouds as I created ridge after ridge. I knocked off 16 miles today in just over 6 hours, including time for admiring views and eating lunch. It felt great. And oh man, the views were the best they've ever been. A rock formation called John's Bunion provided a particularly splendid view of the valleys below.

The shelter is as crowded as I've ever seen. About 30 of us are inside, hiding from the coming storm. I arrived too late for a real spot, so along with Rose I'm sleeping bagged out on the dirt. But there's a roof over my head and a tarp behind me to keep out the rain, so I have few complaints.

Day 14 - Perfection

Miles Today - 12.5

Yesterday was terrible, no denying it. At every turn something seemed to go wrong. Today was perfect. I guess the trail balances itself out, sometimes in extreme ways.

I woke early and broke camp as the light trickled onto the ridge. Persistence sauntered over to me as I was getting out my remaining food (a Snickers and a Cliff bar) and said "205." I nodded, a little grimly. That was 4 miles past Clingam's Dome, the highest point on the AT. I'd have to make my food last.

They lasted an hour. It was chilly, but bright and warming quickly. The ground was slick with mud and puddles from the day before. I quickly pulled into the next shelter, and debated poking around to see if Rose was still there, but judging from the snores coming from within I'd be disturbing a lot of people if I did.

The trek to the Dome felt fast and easy. The weather had reached a perfectly warm point, and the trail felt greener than ever before. I ascended the curving observation tower to be immediately swarmed with what seemed like hundreds of purple shirted middle schoolers, who made taking clear pictures mostly impossible. I descended, doing my best not to bowl over any children who were below my sight line.

"Is there an elevator to that tower?" One of them panted, coming up the road. I giggled.

The path down from the Dome was buzzing with life. Not just was it a solid green tunnel, but it was infested with flies, hovering in swarms over the fetid puddles. Just as I started getting hungry, an older couple passed by. They offered me two apples, and I thought I was about to faint from sheer gratitude. All smiles, we both went our ways.

A mile later I came out to a green field lying below a parking lot. As I came around the bend I saw Persistence's tent drying on the grass. 205. Yes.

I spent a little under an hour there, waiting for Rose. They had a grill going, and bags of chips, cookies, candy, and soda. I kept being encouraged to eat and ended up pitting down 2 burgers, 2 dogs, and more of the others than I could count. It was heaven.

A man in a day pack, named Godspeed, came through, and offered the assembled masses of hikers a shuttle into town from Newfound Gap. Even better! Rose and I picked up and did the fastest 1.7 miles I think I've ever hiked.

At the gap (which hold the North Carolina Tennessee state line, though we've been straddling it for days) Godspeed and his wife, Mountain Momma, had desserts, sodas, and sandwiches for us. They told us about how Godspeed and his son had started a thru hike, only to be stopped when Godspeed caught a bad virus. He told his son to go on without him, but when he hiked the 5 miles to the nearest road his son was there waiting for him. "We started, together, we'll finish together." When they got home they discovered his son, trail name Aslan, had a brain tumor. The doctors said it was inoperable, and gave him only a few months.

Aslan went in for surgery to drill a hole in his skull, to let the brain fluid have a place to drain. His family gathered to pray for mercy, knowing that a brain tumor was a hard way to go. The surgeon went to the waiting room to discuss the procedure with Mountain Momma, and as she was leaving, Momma asked her name so that they could pray for her specifically. The surgeon smiled. "Mercy."

Aslan made a full recovery against the odds, and he and Godspeed finished their hike, together.

Godspeed also warned us that Gatlinburg was like Vegas, only without the gambling. He warned us that he gave out his number so that we could update them on our trip, not to call to ask for bail. I couldn't tell if he was joking.

Gatlinburg is certainly an experience. It's a long strip packed with over the top amusements and restaurants. The streets are packed, with people and cars swarming from attraction to attraction. It's beautiful. It's terrifying. It's a tourist wonderland.

Rose and I are booked at the Grand Prix Motel at the edge of town. We went to a local brewery for dinner, eating with Half Moon, a free lance writer on his third thru hike we had met the day before. I stuffed myself silly while Rose worked hard to convince him to hike the Pacific Crest Trail next.

Beat, I retired to our room and crashed hard. Tomorrow is for shopping, as I need food, and especially some sandals, to wear around camp. There's also a BBQ joint down the street with a highly recommended breakfast buffet. Gatlinburg is certainly crazy, but I look forward to the day off.

Day 13 - Make Up Your Mind!

Miles Today - 17.5

I awoke to birds chirping in the morning sun. Ah. A moment later more rain than I've ever seen fell from the sky and all hell broke loose.

It was that kind of day. The weather alternated several times between gorgeous and torrential rain. I got soaked to the bone and then completely dried three times over.

My appetite has been growing by leaps and bounds. While I left the NOC thinking I had too much food, I now wish I had taken more. Luckily I ran into Refugee's partner (whose name I should really figure out. Also Refugee has left the trail for a week or two), and she told me her parents are doing trail magic on Clingam's Dome tomorrow. Hot dogs and hamburgers. Perfect. I scarfed down the remainder of my snacks.

The shelter was full of people doing minimal millage to hide from the rain, so I set up the hammock nearby. It's supposed to be nice tonight and tomorrow though. Rose went on another 1.7 miles, so I'll wake up early as always and try to catch up in the morning. I'll hit the Dome and wait for that cookout, and then will head into Gatlinburg for some serious relaxation.

Day 12 - In a (Fontana) Jam

Miles Today - 17.6

The Smokies require a permit to travel through. It can be purchased and printed online, or in person at Gatlinburg of Fontana Dam. Or, I thought, the Fontana Dam visitor center on the trail right before the park.

Spoiler alert: this last thing is not true.

Today was beautiful, like the one before. I woke to find my ears were lightly sunburned. Hum. Today I would enter the Smokies, passing by Fontana Dam. I had debated popping into town for a quick hot meal, but my guidebook said the Visitor Center sold snacks, so I figured I'd just get some candy there as an afternoon treat.

Spoiler alert: this would also not work out as planned.

My knee was still twinging, but only on the downhill, so luckily it was 7 miles of downhill to reach the Fontana Hilton shelter on the trail (a shelter with running water and a bathroom! I wish so much I had stayed there!). I made it down alright and guzzled a Mr. Pib from a vending machine, watching Squirrel and another hiker (a physical therapist) get on the shuttle to Fontana. The AT merged briefly onto a road and I arrived at the Visitor Center a few miles later.

I saw Refugee and...damn, I've forgotten her name. Which is bad, because she's one of the few hikers I've seen more than once. Anyways, I cheerfully asked if the store was open. They looked up glumly and shook their heads.

"But we can still get permits here, right?" They shared a look.

"You didn't see?"

"See what?" My panic was rising.

Apparently on a bulletin board there had been a sign announcing the lack of permits sold at the center. Oh no. I'd lose a whole day if I had to go into town. I hesitantly walked into the center, a vague idea forming. "Could I borrow your phone?" I asked of the elderly pair behind the counter.

They allowed it, and soon I was talking to the permit people on the phone. After describing my situation, they let me buy a permit on the phone, and then simply write down the confirmation number. Phew.

As I circled around back to fill my water, I saw two ladies struggling with bringing boxes into the general store. I loped over to help, and they were so grateful they offered me a free candy bar and let me buy some snacks, despite the fact that they were closed. Score!

As I retreated to the dam (which is the bridge into the Smokies) I ran into Rose. Oh shoot! She also didn't have her permit. I explained how she could get one, and then, snacking on Moon Pies, entered the park.

The ascent was rough, mostly due to the heat. The Smokies seemed more alive than the rest of the trail, with more leaves, grass, and in some parts breathtaking expanded of flowers. I arrived at the shelter around 5, and snuggled into a corner spot in the rafters. Perfect.

Over dinner I listened to an ex-nuclear sub technician tell stories to a pair of Special Forces inclined fellows. When Rose arrived we talked through plans. She was meeting her boyfriend on Friday in Hot Springs, meaning she would have to slow down or she would arrive too early. I wanted to avoid the weekend crowds in the Smokies, so we decided to take a zero on Sunday in Gatlinburg.

The Smokies are nice, and now that I have the elevation it looks like easy ridge walking to the city. Should be a nice few days.

Day 11 - Breaks and Ladders

Miles Today - 15.2

At 2 in the morning the dog at the shelter, Shady Security, began to growl. As he let loose a few low, rumbling barks, the shelter stirred to life and headlamps clicked on. I was peeved, and had to pee. And apparently someone had seen some eyes outside. Undeterred, and a little grumpy with all the commotion, I swung down and went a few feet into the woods, scanning for any predators. Whatever it was had long gone.

Today was the first day that was beautiful from sunrise to sunset. I bolted from the shelter in the early morning, first out as always. As I crested the bald I munched on my last honey buns, noting that I would need to buy some pop tarts at the Fontana Visitor Center, if possible.

The first few hours were a little treacherous, as the ground was still wet. My poles sunk dangerously low into the mud and keeping my footing was sometimes an issue. Just before noon I crested Jacob's Ladder, but failed to find any views. Figures that on the clearest day I felt most oppressed by the dead trees that ring the trail.

I stopped for lunch, snacking and reading, and pushed on downhill. On a particularly rocky section I placed my pole on what turned out to be several feet of leaves, not ground, lost balance, and tumbled. I ended up alright, but developed a twinge in my left knee. I took it slow for the rest of the afternoon, stopping frequently on the downhills to not over stress my knee.

Cable Gap shelter is small, in a quaint way, and has a stream right out front. I picked a corner spot and settled in. I snacked, read, ate some Pad Thai noodles for dinner, and then passed the time around a fire.

Tomorrow I enter the Smokies. I need to stop at the Visitor Center to pick up a permit (and hopefully some snacks), and I'm hoping that after a good night's sleep my knee will have recovered.

Day 10 - NOC, NOC, Mail's Here

Miles Today - 18.4

Happily, it did not rain last night. Unhappily, it was saving it all for the afternoon.

The morning was warm and bright. It was going to be a hard day, with some extreme elevation loss then gain. I was a little stiff, but feeling pretty good as I stumbled onto the trail, the first one out as always.

Beginning with an ascent up to a fire tower, dark clouds were gathering overhead and a light drizzle was starting. I pulled myself to the top of the tower, briefly enjoyed the view, and then hid underneath it to chow down on some Fritos. When I got back on the trail I stupidly ended up going the wrong direction, and wasted ten minutes correcting the mistake.

After a ridiculous descent I arrived at the NOC around noon. Going to the outfitter's, I grabbed my mail drop and then went down to the river, out of the rain to open it.

Inside I found food. Oh so much food. Too much food. I grabbed some snacks to help get me to Gatlinburg, ate a huge lunch, and then packed the rest up and shipped it ahead to a motel in Gatlinburg. I briefly considered getting some hot food at one if the restaurants, but knew if I did I wouldn't want to push on anymore that day. So trying hard to ignore the guy eating a huge pizza outside I put the NOC behind me.

The next 8 or so miles were rough. The rain had settled down, but the mist had drifted in, limiting views to just about nothing. Weary and footsore, I trugded into a busy shelter. Lots of new faces, which is the norm as I mostly leave the old ones behind.

I got a corner spot in the rafters (score!) and settled in. We had a fire going in the shelter which clogged everything up with smoke. First tears were shed here, as the smoke filled my eyes trying to put out my bag. Rose arrived an hour or so after me, and from the register I learned that Bear Juice is about a day ahead. My Lo Mein noodles burned my pot a bit, so I had to scour it out some in the river. After the fire burned low we retired to our bags, the shelter still smelling vaguely of smoke. Perhaps that will help keep the mice at bay.

Day 9 - First View In Forever

Miles Today - 15.8

Today was the first day I really felt great. The good night's sleep helped, but today for the first time I really felt like I had gotten stronger. My pack, although heavy, felt lighter, and I pounded through the miles in no time.

It helped that it was beautiful out too. I grabbed a caramel latte and munched on some honey buns from my pack, waiting for the shuttle. I didn't get going until 9:30, but a bag of Easter chocolate awaited us at the gap. Magic! I munched on that throughout the morning, feeling great.

The trail took me over two impressive balds. The first I only skirted the summit of, but the second had an old stone tower where I parked to eat lunch and enjoy the view.

The rest of the trail was uneventful, and I rolled into the shelter around 4. The first one there, I picked an edge spot, filtered my water from the stream ten feet away, and curled up to read.

The shelter (and surrounding tent sites) were happening tonight. Rose showed up a little after I did and we planned our next day. Twirls I had passed at the tower, and we spent some time sharing bug battling strategies. Dexter and I discussed terrible TV show ending, and I learned he was an extra on Teen Wolf some time ago. I finally met Purple, who has been painting everyone's nails...you guessed it, purple. I've been seeing her handiwork for the past few days, and got my own right hand done up. Along with six or so others, we all cooked and chatted our way to nightfall, the chief topic of conversation: did anyone know where Salty Balls was?

Tomorrow the elevation will be crazy. I'll lose a few thousand feet in the morning, and then gain it all back by night. Rose and I are thinking of going 18 or so miles to a shelter, stopping mid day at the NOC. I have some food from my family waiting there, and hopefully will be able to grab a burger from the restaurant. Here's hoping my new found strength holds!

Day 8 - Lazy Day

Miles Today - 7.3

I woke at 6:30 to a half lit shelter. Feeling an urge to get to town as quickly as possible, I scampered around the rafters to put my stuff in order, setting out as the rest of the shelter was just stirring.

The short hike was easy and beautiful as the sun poked its head over the mountains. The moment I set foot on the road the shuttle pulled up, and I gladly piled in.

In town I was dropped straight at the motel. My room was still being cleaned so I headed out to McDonalds for breakfast and to post my previous three days. I had wifi, but sadly no reception.

I spent the afternoon lazily watching movies on TV (Forrest Gump and The Last Samurai), waiting for the 4:00 shuttle to the outfitter's/Walmart. As 4 rolled around I went to the parking lot to find that Rose had arrived, but Bear Juice had decided to push on. At the outfitter's I bought a cheap, small, ground mat for when I slept at shelters (which was becoming every night if possible). At Walmart I bought noodles of all kinds, and then a bunch of terrible for me snack foods to keep me happy.

Back at the motel I took a quick walk to Domino's and bought a horrific amount of pizza and cinna-stix, laying on a grassy slope to pig out in the shade. I rolled back to the motel bloated and happy.

I know I will be resting in Gatlinburg, a town another 100 miles away, but I have yet to plan my resupplies along the way. An outfitter/resort sits on the trail about a day away, and my family has mail dropped food there, so that will at least be a stop. Tomorrow my pack will be heavy with food, but I look forward to stretching my legs.

Day 7 - Fire Tower

Miles Today - 16.2

Woke up this morning not only cocooned in my bag, but between Rose and Cruiser. It was lightly drizzling, so I quickly packed up, crammed my pockets with food, and set out. The first few miles were an ascent up Standing Indian Mountain, which was wreathed in clouds.

At around 11 the rain began to clear and the clouds drifted away. I stopped at a nice vista and had lunch with Bear Juice. The rest of the day was rolling hills until a steep ascent to a fire tower, which marks the 100 mile point. As I was summiting, the rain returned, but I still pulled myself up the stairs to the top of the tower, only to find it locked! Damn it!

I slouched down the last few miles, arriving at the shelter around 3. With hours to kill, Bear Juice, Rose, Yogi and I chatted in the rafters. This shelter was built last year and is all sorts of big.

I'm planning on staying in Franklin tomorrow to rest, relax, and resupply. The others might stop in to supply as well. I only have a 7 mile hike to the crossing, so I'll be taking a "nero" (not quite a zero).

Day 6 - Border Crossing!

Miles Today - 20.3

I managed to learn the names of the two hikers I've been with: Rambling Rose and Bear Juice. Awkwardness avoided!

I woke up this morning to find I had rolled three feet over with my nose inches from a seven foot drop to the shelter floor. Uh oh. I scrambled back and scrunched up in my bag, building up the willpower to face the chilly morning. I few minutes later I found the energy to get my coat on, grab my food for the day, pack up and get going by 7:40 or so.

Today's hike involved a lot of good ascents that teasingly skirted the peaks, providing absolutely no views. The sky was grey and foreboding all day, the rumor that rain was to start at around 4.

Close to noon I came across Rose, eating chips in a tortilla at the GA/NC border. Another hiker named Atlas joined us, and we all snapped some pictures. Past the border was a very twisted, gnarled tree in a clearing, perfect for a photo opp, but by that point my phone was off.

The rain did indeed start around 4, coming in pitter-patters. I slipped on my pack cover, but left off the poncho. The final ascent was tough, but the poor weather and my growling stomach spurred me on. I arrived at the shelter a little before 6, and squeezed my bag in.

There's 8 of us crammed in here, lined up like sardines. It's very cozy, and very warm. Tomorrow we're doing either 16 or 19 miles, and the day after stopping in Franklin. Hopefully the fact that it's Easter Sunday (something we had all forgotten) won't stop us from getting rides. For now, it's time to settle into my bag with a belly full of noodles, and get some good reading done.

Day 5 - Post Rest

Miles Today - 13.1

I woke up at 7 as always, which was a half hour before the alarm I had set. In that moment I did the math of how long I could stay in this bed before I ran out of money. But the temptation of a hot shower was too strong, and I soon hopped out of bed. I picked up breakfast at Subway and ate it while packing and watching Spongebob. At 9 I was on a shuttle headed back to the trail.

In the shuttle was a big family with a husky, and a few other long distance hikers. We chatted about where we were from and the weather, i.e. basic hiker chat.

The first part of the trail today was a pair of tall mountains. I pushed up both, feeling much better. As the terrain became more hilly my toes started aching again, maybe I wasn't all better after all. I spent the whole day passing back and forth between three other hikers (whose names I cannot remember, I am so bad at names). At the end of the day was about a 700 foot gain, which felt brutal on my weary muscles, and then a drop back down. I was very happy to arrive at the shelter.

After chatting, reading, and eating my noodles I set up my sleeping bag in the rafters. I love rafters! Score! And I got a whole wing to myself to spread out in. There was a mouse sighting, so tomorrow I may be very upset with a sleeping bag full of holes, but I have faith. Tomorrow two of the hikers I hung out with today are thinking of doing about 20 miles to a shelter, and I hope to feel well enough to join them. If not, I'll stop 5 or so miles short at another. Now off the massage my toes and fight off the mice!

Day 4 - Magic

Miles Today - 15.4

Last night was rough. I did not fully understand how cold it would be. My foot warmers ended up in my food bag, and stumbling around in the arctic temperatures to retrieve them did not seem like a fun prospect. So I curled up and gritted my teeth through the night.

The morning was a bit better. My second pair of socks and bandana had frozen solid. It took a lot of willpower to crawl out of my mummy bag. I packed up quickly and wished my companion good luck. I immediately realized that the last night had left me unprepared for the miles today. I was stiff, sore, and my long toes felt bruised from smashing down hills. I set a slower pace, resting up a lot. The icy temperatures made me stow my poles and shove my hands deep in my pockets.

The trail wasn't that bad, made up of rolling ups and downs. Trees blocked out any views, but by noon it had turned sunny and warm. I continued to start and stop my way along the trail, snacking and meeting a whole bunch of people. A group of Canadians down for 10 days from Alberta, Mad Max, hiking the trail in his year off from studying economics, Fancy Pants, who's section hiking her way through the South.

At Unicoi Gap Fancy Pants offered me and another hiker a ride to Hiawassee. I graciously accepted, excited to stay in a motel and rest up. But first we came across Peaches, who was doing some trail magic at the Gap. I gorged on sodas, chips, and Oreos, feeling beat after a hard day.

At Hiawassee I poked my head into the Budget Inn. The sign had the "no" in "no vacancies" lit up, but it was the cheapest place in town so I wanted to be sure. The manager took one look at me, and decided to give me one of his rooms that someone else had reserved earlier. "You get a feel for people, you know? And I feel this guy isn't gonna show." Charging me only 40 bucks for the 80 dollar room he handed me my key. And gosh what a room. TV, kitchen, fridge, shower and two beds. I feel like I'm in heaven.

After resting up on the couch here I plan to hit the town for supplies and a big ol' dinner at the Chinese restaurant around the corner. But not before a good shower. Tomorrow I plan to take it slow, as I think my feet with still be howling, and stop at a shelter either 8 or 14 miles down the road. The gain tomorrow looks challenging, so tonight's rest will be much appreciated.

Day 3 - Opposite of Day 1

Miles Today: 19.4

On Sunday I was peeling off my shirt at every break, and my hands were so slick with sweat holding my poles was problematic. Today I wore every article of clothing I have, and my fingers were completely frozen into talons around my poles.

But that was the afternoon. The morning wasn't too much better. I woke at 7 in the rain, and slept in till 8, hoping it would subside. It did not. Everything wet or damp, I packed up and headed out by 8:30. Not wanting to filter water in the rain, I decided to push only with only a quarter liter.

Around 10 the rain stopped. But the wind started. Still covered by a dense fog, the wind chilled me to the bones as I trudged up Blood Mountain (luckily not aptly named). The miles today were fairly easy, but the wind made it hell.

Around 2 I reached Neel's Gap and quickly ducked into the outfitter's. I bought and guzzled down a Sprite, and then browsed the web and bought some food as my phone charged. Here I picked up some water, and then fighting the urge to stay at the hostel, pushed on.

The next 5.5 miles were easy, but the wind was so fierce keeping my poles on the ground was becoming difficult. I struggled on to where I thought the shelter was, only to find it was a mile off the trail. Ugh!

The shelter is not the best, offering only a little protection against the wind. The other hiker here and I are in our respective tents/hammocks, in the shelter, to stay warm. Tonight is supposed to be frigid, but tomorrow should be warm. I might take a slow day and stop at an early shelter, or go further and try to hitch into town. I'm just excited for above 50 temperatures!

Day 2 - Too Much Fog

Miles Today - 17.2

Today I had to skip the shelter and push on to Woody Gap, so that tomorrow I could avoid an area of the trail where camping is restricted save for those with bear canisters. Of course that meant today is the day it started pouring.

I left the shelter at 7:45, full of energy. Singing some songs to myself I passed Skeeter, eating breakfast by a stream at Three Forks, a lovely waterfall. Skipping the view I pressed on. The fog was dense, and I knew at any second it would start raining.

The morning was uneventful, and I stopped to rest at a road crossing before I started doing my serious elevation of the day. As I began up the first mountain the rain started. I switched into my poncho and pushed on, bandana sopping wet. Up another mountain and then across a few miles of slight ups and downs I reached the Gooch shelter at around 1:00.

Unpacking to dry off a little, I chatted with the people who were staying there tonight. Munching on some jerky I watched many of the people I had passed earlier stumble in, dripping water. Glad I wasn't staying there that night, I shouldered my pack and continued on.

The last 5 and a bit miles felt rough as I grew more and more weary. Clearly I am not in tip top shape. I stumbled into Woody Gap and lay on a park bench. The local hiker hostel had a shuttle, but they were full up for the night so I decided to set up my hammock. A cook and bear bag later I was in bed before 7:00.

Tomorrow I crest Blood Mountain, and will hopefully be able to see something. The fog today obscured every view. I will then cross through Neel's Gap, where there is an outfitter, and hope to find a shelter by night. Should be an 18 mile or so day, with some decent gains, so I'm a little nervous.

What's On My Back

Gear is quite the subject among hikers. There's a culture built up around finding that perfect kit. Especially among thru-hikers, many of whom fall under the ultralight category, reducing your base pack weight can seem almost as strenuous as the hiking itself. And it doesn't help that for every piece of gear you find, there are most likely twenty off brand slightly different alternatives you could buy, each with their own zealous supporters. Screw having a guide for the trail, I've spent the last few months wishing I could just have a guide for my gear.

The worst part is that living in the woods is an incredibly expensive affair. The true scope of the money you have to spend is not immediately apparent. Your pack, shelter, and sleeping bag are all going to be multi-hundred dollar items, sure, but it stops there, right? Browsing through REI or its ilk you find your cook sets, bear bags, gadgets, ponchos, water filtration, and what have you reasonably priced. I quickly sat down with a piece of paper and a blue marker and started writing down everything I needed, then the brand I wanted to buy and how much it would cost me. At the end I tallied up the expense. Sure the "big 3" would knock me out a few hundred, but the rest were all below 30 dollars a piece! I hit enter, and my jaw hit the floor. I don't like calculating total expenses anymore (and that was before I started buying clothes).

As much as a set out to be an ultralight hiker, I don't really fall under that category anymore. My disgust for ultralight pricing (sleeping bags shouldn't be $500, come on), and my desire to bring entertainment with me has been steadily increasing my base weight. So what I've listed here is by no means an ideal, but just what I've cobbled together these past few months. Chances are high I discard and replace some in disgust within the first week.

Backpack

Here I think I hit the jackpot though. I'm rocking the GoLite Jam 50, an amazingly light, amazingly cheap pack that's garish blue color should stand out from miles away. Seriously, that picture in no way does it justice. This pack is blue. At just under 2 pounds and just over 100 dollars this is by far the best deal I've seen on an ultralight bag, and was immediately added to my list. Having worn it around town for the past few weeks I've found it comfy, and equipped with lots of easy to reach pockets for snacks, which is obviously the most important quality in a bag.

Weight: 1 lbs 14 oz

Shelter

This was actually the first piece of gear I selected, way back around November. My lab partner camped, and told me how much he loved the Hennessy Hammock. I cannot agree more. This thing is like sleeping on a...well...a hammock. Which I think is high praise. It's light, quick and easy to set up, and did I mention comfortable? Drawbacks include "cold butt syndrome," where due to the fact that it's off the ground it lacks the insulating warmth you get from a tent, and in lower temperatures your backside gets chilly. This I can attest to, having taken it out in sub freezing temperatures, something I hope not to have to do again (but I will be coming prepared with foot warmers). Once you get used to lashing this thing up it works like a dream.

Weight: 2 lbs 4 oz

Sleeping Bag

Picking a bag was a nightmare. There's too many, and they're all the gosh darn same. And the lightest ones are so expensive it's aggressive. Add to the list of problems the variable temperature on the trail and it can be hard to pin point a temperature rating you want. Some people switch out their bags as they go north, but I'll be aiming not to do that. I ended up with the Marmot Cloudbreak 30. It's cozy, pretty warm, and it packs up alarmingly small. The only issue is that the outside material and my jacket feel exactly the same, which is very confusing when trying to pull the hood up over your head while wearing the jacket. I spent a few awkward minutes tugging at my back and not understanding the problem.

Weight: 2 lbs

Water

Drinking, it turns out, is important. I'll be using a Sawyer Mini filter for the trip. It's essentially a large straw that filters water drawn through it, or squeezed through it via a supplied bag. Because I'm a worrywart, I also have a little bottle of pills in case the filter goes to hell. I then also have a bladder to store said water.

Weight: 9 oz



Cooking

I love to eat. I especially love to eat after a long day of hiking. See, I'm not the best cook. But after a day of strenuous hiking literally everything tastes good. So on the trail, I am my own master chef. I'm packing a Trangia Mini Stove Kit. It's a basic alcohol stove, windscreen, and pot, but a feature I like is that the pot lid doubles as a frying pan. Most light weight cooking kits forgo the ability to fry, and if I go four months without bacon I will without a doubt snap and do something dangerous. Stuffed in there I also have a lighter and a box of matches, and my fuel is carried in a blue Powerade bottle. Very high tech, I know.

Weight: 12 oz

Clothes

This is the real kicker. Just when you thought you had it all, you realize that your wardrobe is woefully prepared. Thru-hikers make do with a very small amount of clothes. I'll be bringing a t-shirt, long sleeved Under Armor shirt, some zip off pants, two pairs of Smartwool socks, and two pairs of underwear for my normal clothes. On top of that I have my favorite hoody (which I was tempted not to bring but I'm a sucker for nostalgia), a lightweight jacket, a hat, fingerless gloves, and a poncho. I'm really skimping when it comes to clothing. High tech light weight rain gear is very cool, very useful, and costs a fortune. I'll be making due with what I have, and my sunny disposition.

Weight: 2 lbs 10 oz (of course a good deal of that is worn per day)

Gadgets

Some people go hike the AT to get away from the modern world. To leave their phones behind. I am not one of those people. I intend to jam my way to Katahdin to the tunes coming out of my earbuds. To this end I am taking a pair of MP3 players that run off of a single AAA battery. One for music, the other for podcasts and audiobooks. To keep my phone charged I have a Bear Grylls Solar Wrap. People call the AT the "green tunnel," but at the very least it's a nice external battery. I also have a SPOT Locator. Every night I hit a button and it sends my location to friends and family so they know I'm alive. And if I'm in danger of not being alive for much longer, I can call for SOS. Finally I have my Kindle, which my friend Paul graciously let me borrow. I intend to have it loaded with 50 books by the time I leave, as I read voraciously when hiking.

Weight: 1 lbs 2 oz (including cables and extra batteries)

Everything Else

I've also got first aid, a pack cover, my AT guide book, a headlamp, rope, a bag for food, toiletries, and a small towel that dries very quickly. As well as a whole bunch of plastic bags that everything goes in. And of course, my knock off Aviators I bought for a dollar.

Weight: 13 oz (...ish)

So all told I'm carrying about 12 pounds, give what I've forgotten and take what I'm wearing or carrying. This is 3 or 4 pounds above what I wanted when I set out, but most of this extra weight is from me being stingy, and from the non essentials that I want to carry, like my electronics. Although sometimes stressful, it's been a fun exercise fitting the next few months of my life into a 50 liter pack.

My next post should be on Sunday night, my first from the trail. Thanks to everyone who has given me their support so far, it's meant a lot to me. Starting on Sunday I'll be doing my best to make daily posts, reception allowing. Until then, thanks for reading!